Category Archives: Free Patterns

Shibui Silk Cloud Scarf

Shibui Silk Cloud Scarf

silk cloud scarf

This beautiful scarf is made with only two skeins of Shibui Silk Cloud. Its a super light silk mohair yarn that has amazing depth since the silk core is a slightly lighter shade than the mohair fluff surrounding it. The stitch pattern is good old Feather and Fan, a really simple lace—think YARN OVER (YO) and KNIT 2 TOGETHER (K2tog).
To make the scarf you hold 2 strands of yarn together throughout, the different shaded stripes come from switching out which two strands of yarn you hold together. The sample shown uses one skein of Mineral and one skein of Clay.

PATTERN
With 2 strands held together and a US size 13 needle CO 38 sts
Row 1: Knit.
Row 2: Purl
Row 3: K1, *k2tog (3 times), yo k1 (6 times), k2tog (3 times); rep from *, to the last st, k1.
Row 4: Knit.

Repeat Rows 1 – 4 for pattern. Switch the combination of the yarns held together every 12 rows.
Work 180 rows total.

Linen Tote Bag

Linen Tote bag pattern at The Little Knittery

Linen Tote bag pattern at The Little Knittery

Just arrived beautiful linen yarn in bright turquoise and subtle lavender. It’s the perfect fiber for making a quick summer tote bag.

Linen tote bag
2 skeins Fibranatura Flax (100% linen); 137 yds/125 m per 50 g
US size G hook

Ch4, sl st to 1st ch to form a loop.
Rnd 1: Ch 3 (counts as 1dc), work 7 dc into center of loop, slip st to top of ch3. (8dc)
Rnd 2: Ch 3 (counts as 1dc) and 1 dc in same st, 2 dc in each foll st, sl st to top of ch 3. (16 dc)
Rnd 3: Ch 3 (counts as 1dc) and 1 dc in same st, 1 dc in next st, *2dc in next st, 1 dc in foll st; rep from *, sl st to top of ch 3. (24 dc)
Rnd 4: Ch 3 (counts as 1dc) and 1 dc in same st, 1 dc in next 2 sts, *2dc in next st, 1 dc in foll 2 sts; rep from *, sl st to top of ch 3. (32dc)

Cont increasing 8 dc in patt, (adding 1 dc between inc’s every rnd)
Last inc round is 2 dc, 1 dc in foll 10 sts. 96 dc total

Work even for 20 rnd. Work 1 rnd of sc, sl st to first sc. Don’t cut string.
Strap:
Row 1-3: Ch 1, 1 sc in same st and foll 7 sts. Turn work. 8 sc
Row 4: Ch 2, 1 dc in next st and foll 6 sts. Turn work. 8 dc
Rep Row 4 (38 times).
Rep Row 1 four times more, pull rem yarn through last st and sew strap down to opposite side of bag.

A Cuddly Cactus

These are the cuddliest cacti around!  Pet ’em, squeeze ’em, accidentally brush against them- no pricks!

Plus, they’re even heartier than their living counterparts, so no lack of watering or sunlight will do them in!

The cactus is knit flat and then seamed and stuffed.  This pattern is very easy to alter and customize.  Try out some different stitch textures if you’re feeling adventurous, like seed stitch, or maybe even a simple old garter.

Materials Needed

– Approx 50 yds chunky or bulky weight green wool blend yarn (smaller weight yarn will make a smaller cactus, larger weight yarn will make a bigger cactus) – I used some leftover Cascade Baby Alpaca Chunky for super-extra cuddliness

– Knitting needles one or two sizes smaller than reccommended for the yarn you are using (smaller needles means tighter stitches, means no stuffing sticks out) – I used US size 8

– A plant pot

– Floral foam* that will get nicely wedged inside your pot

– Floral picks* about the height of your pot if not taller

– Stones to lay at the base of your cactus

– Polyfil

– Jumbo darning needle

You can get all of that weird floral stuff at Michael’s.  The floral foam is basically green styrofoam that will shed a bit, the floral picks are green wooden giant toothpicks, essentially.  In place of floral picks you can probably use a pencil or a knitting needle, or a part of a wire hanger.  You get the idea; something rigid and pointy.

Instructions

Cast on 19 sts.

(The cactus rib pattern is based on a multiple of 3 sts, plus 1.  So if you want to make a bigger or smaller cactus and stick to the ribbing pattern, you will cast on a multiple of 3, and then add an extra stitch.)

Repeat the following two rows for 5 inches (or more or less, depending how tall you want your Cuddly to be):

Row 1: (K1, p2) repeat until 1 stitch remains, k1.

Row 2: (P1, k2) repeat until 1 stitch remain, p1.

When you reach 5 inches, work Row 1 one more time.

Decrease Row 1: (P1, k2tog) repeat until 1 stitch remains, P1

Decrease Row 2: P2tog until 1 stitch remains, P1.

Slip all your stitches onto your free needle so that the yarn is now attached to the bottom stitch on the needle.

Cut yarn from ball, leaving a 12″ tail.  Thread tail onto jumbo darning needle and slip all of the stitches onto the tail, stretching the yarn across the back of the knit piece, lifting each stitch off of the needle and onto the tail yarn as you go.

When you have slipped the last stitch, pull the yarn tight like a drawstring and sew a seam down the side of the cactus.

Stuff with fiberfill.  Cut your pot-filler to fit tightly inside of you pot .  Use the stick to poke a prep hole in the filler.  Insert the stick into the stuffing to hold the cactus up.  Insert the stick end of the cactus into the hole.

Arrange the stones around the bottom of the cactus.  Voila!

Lavender + Chocolate

Lavender + Chocolate

Lavender + Chocolate: two of my favorite things!

This super soft and lightweight chill-blocker is worked from the top-down, using YO increases to create a triangular shape, in a basic eyelet stitch, with a few wide stripes thrown in to highlight the V-shape which results from the increases.

A simple eyelet.

A simple eyelet.

If you’ve been wanting to try out lace, the basic eyelet is a great place to start.  This eyelet pattern consists of four rows repeated, and only one of those rows makes the actual lace openings.  The other three rows continue the method of YO increases on a stockinette stitch background.

Lavender + Chocolate is also beautiful in a self-striping yarn or a solid color.

Lavender + Chocolate by Julie Edwards for The Little Knittery

Materials: 1 ball Schaefer Yarns Andrea (50% silk, 50% wool), 1 ball Jade Sapphire 2-ply Cashmere, or 400 yards each in two different colors (a Main Color and a Contrast Color) and/or fibers of lace, fingering, or sock yarn, US size 4 32″ circular needles, 2 markers, jumbo darning needle

Instructions:

Using MC (Main Color, in this case the purple) cast on 3 sts.  Knit 6 rows.  You will have a small rectangle.  Now, pick up and knit  6 sts from the long edge of the rectangle.  You may have to fudge this slightly to get all 6, but persevere.  You will now have sort of a weird knitted nub:

This is what it should look like after you’ve picked up and knit 6 sts along one side edge of your knitting.

You now have 9 sts on the needle.

Prep Row: K4, YO, pm, k1, pm, YO, k4.  These markers will serve to separate the very center stitch from the rest of the sts.

Row 1 (wrong side): K3, YO, purl to marker, slip marker, k1, slip marker, purl until there are 3 sts left on the needle, YO, K3.

Row 2 (right side): K3, YO, knit to marker, YO, slip marker, K1, slip marker, YO, knit until there are 3 sts left on the needle, YO, K3.

*Notice that you have a YO before 3 knit stitches on either end of the piece, but ONLY on Row 2 (the right side row) do you have YOs on either side of the center stitch.

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 6 more times.  You can continue with these two rows if you’d like to keep it simple.  The resulting shawl will be in stockinette stitch, still very beautiful, and a lot warmer!  But if you’d like a little challenge, you will now switch over to the eyelet lace pattern, which is 4 rows repeated:

Eyelet Row 1 (wrong side): K3, YO, purl to marker, slip marker, k1, slip marker, purl until there are 3 sts remain, YO, K3.

Eyelet Row 2 (lace row): K3, YO, k1, YO, *ssk, YO.  Repeat from * until 4 sts before the marker, ssk, K2, YO, slip marker, K1, slip marker, YO, K2, **K2tog, YO.  Repeat from ** until 6 sts remain , K2tog, YO, K1, YO, K3.

Eyelet Row 3: As Row 1 (but this time you will be purling the YOs as well as the knit sts.  They will feel much looser than regular stitches, but you will treat them the same.)

Eyelet Row 4: Row 2 (right side): K3, YO, knit to marker, YO, slip marker, K1, slip marker, YO, knit until there are 3 sts left on the needle, YO, K3.

Repeat Eyelet Rows 1 through 4 until you have 14 rows of eyelets at the center of the piece (you can just count the holes from up to down), having just finished Eyelet Row 3.

Switch to CC (Contrast Color, in this case the brown).  Beginning with Eyelet Row 4, work Eyelet Rows 1 through 4 until you have 12 rows of eyelets at the center of the piece (you can just count the holes from up to down), having just finished Eyelet Row 3.

Now you will switch back to MC, and work as above, switching to CC after 14 center eyelet holes, and so on until you have worked 2 more MC stripes, and 1 more CC stripe.  (That’s 3 MC stripes and 2 CC stripes total.)

Now you will work the garter stitch border:

Garter Border Row 1:  K3, YO, knit to marker, slip marker, k1, slip marker, knit until there are 3 sts left on the needle, YO, K3.

Garter Border Row 2: K3, YO, knit to marker, YO, slip marker, K1, slip marker, YO, knit until there are 3 sts left on the needle, YO, K3.

Repeat the Garter Border Rows for 6 rows total.

Bind off loosely using the US size 6 needle.

Mesh and Lace

Mesh and Lace, worn to the side

Mesh and Lace is a hidden keyhole cravat.  A 1×1 ribbed loop is knit on the backside of the piece to pull the cravat through so it will stay wrapped exactly as snug as you like.

Mesh and Lace, turned inside out

The mesh and lace texture is created by knitting a strand of a silk and baby mohair laceweight yarn together with a self-striping ribbon, and then, every few rows, the laceweight silk-mohair is knit alone.

Mesh and Lace – it scrunches in where the hidden keyhole is.

This is a good beginner-intermediate lace project.  It’s 2 rows repeated, so easy to memorize and work without having to refer to the pattern.  And then every 6 rows the laceweight mohair is worked single (with the ribbon yarn carried up the side) in a simple stockinette.

Mesh and Lace by Julie Edwards for The Little Knittery

Materials: 1 ball Cascade Kid Seta (yarn A), 1 ball Schulana Macaibo (yarn B), US size 10.5 SP knitting needles, stitch holder,  jumbo darning needle

Instructions:

Using Yarn A and Yarn B held together, cast on 31 sts.

Row 1:  Sl 1, K1, psso (pass the slipped stitches over the knit stitch on the right-hand needle, like when you cast off), *k1, (yo, k1, yo), k1, (sl 1, k2tog, psso).  Repeat from * until 4 sts remain, k1, (yo, k1, yo), sl 1, k1, psso.

Row 2: Purl every stitch.

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 two more times (6 rows total.)

Rows 7 – 8: Using only Yarn A, knit a row, then purl a row,

Repeat rows 1 through 8 for 31″. having just completed a wrong side row using Yarn A and B together.

Now you will divide the yarn up for the Hidden Keyhole at the back of the piece: Slip 1 stitch onto the stitch holder and knit the next stitch.  Repeat this until you have every other stitch on the stitch holder.

Work a k1, p1 rib using the remaining 16 stitches and holding Yarn A and B together for 2.5″.  This will form a tight little ribbed section.

Now, put all the stitches back together: knit 1 stitch from the needle and 1 stitch from the needle holder until all 32 stitches are on the knitting needles again.

Now repeat Rows 1 through 8 from above for another 8″, making sure to maintain the right side and the wrong side of the fabric!  (So, look at your work after you get your 32 stitches back on the needle, and work the row that is facing you.  If you are looking at the backside, then work the purl row, if you are looking at the front side of the lace, work a lace row.)

Bind off on a lace row, in other words, you will be working a Row 1 while binding off.

The Mesh and Lace Hidden Keyhole Cravat